Ashmolean Dining Room: Autumn/Winter menu

I feel slightly guilty blogging about the Ashmolean Dining Room. Shortly after the first time I ate there I started raving about it to one of my academics, before he cut me off with shushing noises. Apparently, if you know about it, you're not allowed to tell anyone, in case those in the know stop being able to get a table and skulk there any time they fancy. Given that Tony, Kate, Alison, Alissa, and even the Oxford Times have already gotten in on the act, I fear the days when my academic could sit there in peace and quiet are long gone.

So, given that, on to the food. I had expected a few canapes, and still haven't been forgiven by the boy for conveying this impression to him, resulting in him staying at home and eating beans on toast instead. This, however was much more. When they said "new menu tasting" they really did mean "tasting" the whole "new menu". I could barely walk by the end of it. Fortunately for you lot, though, you'll be able to just order one, two, or three of these dishes when you go, as I've done all the hard work of trying them for you.

Starters


The stand out, kick-myself-for-never-thinking-of-it, option for me here was the smoked paprika grilled squid. Charred squid + smoky spice = a brilliant match, and the squid was very well cooked. I would never normally order soup in a restaurant (I can make perfectly good soup at home, thank you very much), but the cauliflower one here is probably the best I've ever had. With a texture like liquid velvet, and aided by a dash of truffle oil, this transformed cauliflower from traditional "and cheese" ingredient into something sublime.

Let down options for me were the crab panacotta, which was just insufficiently crabby and too light and summery - not a dish for November - and the seafood platter. The second of these was a huge shame; having been persuaded to try the (home) cured herring element by Sue, and discovered that it was actually really delicious, I was puzzled by their inclusion of some pretty meh-inducing smoked salmon and prawns with all the taste and texture of those I recently dug out of year's hibernation in my freezer.

I'd also encourage giving the cauliflower salad (yes! I love cauliflower, so am pleased to see a restaurant do two interesting things with it) a go: it was perhaps a little underseasoned, but a good, interesting effort nonetheless.

Mains


It's worth noting here that the Ashmolean does good work in catering for vegetarians and pescatarians, with two (interesting!) vegetarian mains and five fish mains. The first were a nice twist on that classic compulsory option for vegetarians daring to eat out - mushroom risotto - but here made with pleasantly chewy pearl barley and with plenty of leeks and spinach, and a salad billed as "beetroot, pecans, and goats' cheese" but more like "GOATS' CHEESE, beetroot, and pecans". I'd be happy to eat deep-fried goats' cheese most days, and the salad here was a lovely accompaniment.

However, the top option for me here really has to be the lamb rump. As with the squid starter, this was superbly cooked: charred on the outside and rare on the inside. Every other restaurant I've ever eaten please take note and stop serving me grey, dry, flabby stuff. The chargrilled bream was also lovely (again with the charring - I spot a pattern), and served with some grilled chicory - an idea I'll also be stealing, thank you - and a dollop of herby creme fraiche.

The normally-less-adventurous among you should, however, order the rabbit. Beautifully tender and mild, in a tarragon sauce, this would make an excellent introduction to game for those normally scared of such things (and on that note, I should make you aware that the bream comes on the bone and with head, and the sole and monkfish on the bone).

Puddings


I like that these are called "puddings" and not "dessert". Good thing too, as these are some proper puddings. The chocolate sponge wasn't particularly laced with amaretti, but was delicious nonetheless. However - fuck me - Paris Brest. None of us had any idea what this was, and were a bit underwhelmed when what looked like a plain choux bun appeared on the table. Reluctantly, we dug in, and were stunned by the rich and flaky pastry and the loveliest, most moreish nougatty and chestnutty cream. I've been furiously googling recipes for this to try and replicate it, but in the meantime I will certainly be back for more. Finally, as if to make up for the slightly sad panacotta starter, a proper panacotta with the perfect wobble and a grainy poached pear to keep it company.


I was slightly sorry to see that the Ashmolean has dropped its small-plates feature (although perhaps they'll still be there at lunchtimes), but the new menu is probably more accessible than its previous efforts. It still holds plenty of interest for dedicated foodies, if needing a little more perfecting, and a more generous hand with the salt and pepper, in places. I'll certainly be back, and not entirely because I've promised to take the boy as an apology for misleading him about quite how much food I was going to spend my evening eating.


With thanks to Andrew Cashin and all at the Ashmolean for letting us try it for free.


Ashmolean Dining Room